Cover my ass blah blah. Like anything automotive related you should stay within your comfort level. If you don't feel capable of the task take it to someone who is. Don't play games with your brakes. I take no responsibility if you do something wrong or these instructions don't work on your car or if something bad comes out of your repair.
Tools needed:
Jack
Tire Iron or 19mm socket and breaker bar
12/17mm wrenches or sockets
Large C-Clamp
New pads and rotors (Duh)
Wire Brush
High temperature non-melting silicone brake lubricant
Anti-Seize
Torque wrench
Possibly a BFH
First things first jack up your car and remove the wheel. If you don't know how to do this you probably SHOULD take your car to a garage.
Crank the wheel fully one way or the other depending on which side gives you the best access to the caliper. First remove is the 12mm bolt at the bottom of the caliper.
Once this is removed the caliper should swing easily on the upper slide pin attatched to the caliper bracket. If this is not the case you may need to use some force to remove it. You'll definitly want to clean this up since the caliper needs to slide along this pin smoothly for proper operation. If it can't your braking could be greatly affected. This was the case with my passenger side caliper shown and it had to be hammered off. Not a good thing.
If you're only replacing your brake pads this is as far as you need to go. The caliper will flip up out of the way and you'll have full access to the pads. Skip ahead to the section where the caliper bracket is re-attached.
Slide the caliper off the slide pin and put it out of the way. Be careful not to stretch or damage the brake lines. No matter where you put the caliper its going to get in the way and fall so be careful. Some people attatch the caliper to the spindle arm with a zip tie or string to keep it out of the way.
With the caliper out of the way remove the 17mm bolts attatching the caliper bracket to the spindle. Once these are removed the caliper bracket should come off freely.
Now your rotor should be free to come off. If this is the first time your rotors have been off or your mechanics have been very thorough on the past there may be two phillips-head screws on the rotor that need to be removed. If you're lucky they'll come right off. In a lot of cases they'll need to be drilled out. There's also two other holes in the rotor so that you can insert some threaded screws and push the rotor from the hub. I've never used these. If your rotor isn't screwed in and you're replacing them because they're worn out they'll usually come off with some motivation from a BFH.
Now is a good time to clean up your parts. Take a wire brush to the hub and remove some of the corrosion, clean up the mating surfaces where the caliper bracket mounts to make the job easier the next time. It doesn't hurt to spray the whole thing down with brake cleaner. (Wonderful stuff) Its also a good time to check your CV boots on your axle for deterioration or rips. If you see grease leaking from them they should be replaced ASAP.
The caliper should be inspected at this point. This one is still usable but is getting pretty old. Check the boot around the caliper piston for tears or kinks. Clean out the upper slot where the slide pin goes with a pipe cleaner or whatever you have on hand. (An old rag and a pencil for me. :) ) Make sure the lower metal sleeve mount moves freely within its boots as well.
Now its time to put on your shiny new parts.
Place the rotor on the hub and mount the caliper bracket around it with the two 17mm bolts you removed. Now is the time for some fastener TLC. Anti-seize is your best friend. Clean the threads with a wire brush and slather them with it. For the long 12mm bolt lubricate the entire length as it needs to move freely within the lower sleeve on the caliper. Torque the 17mm bolts to 80 ft-lbs.
Its a good idea at this point to clean up the metal retaining clips that sit above and below the pads in the caliper bracket. Clean off any rust accumulation and dab them with a bit of silicone brake lubricant.
Seat the pads in the retaining clips and press them in firmly against the rotor. On most Hondas the inner pad is the one with the metal wear indicator clipped to it. They can be tapped in with a hammer but be careful not to crush the retaining clips. They're pretty delicate. Apply a generous amount of brake lubricant to the outside of the pads where the caliper will contact them. (Around the piston contact point on the inside and to both sides of center on the outer pad.) This will help keep the pads from squealing later.
Now to install the caliper. First clean up the slide pin at the top of the caliper bracket with a cloth and some brake cleaner. The pin should be clean of corrosion or dirt. Make sure the receiving slot on the caliper is clean as well. Generously grease the pin with silicone lubricant and slide the caliper on. It should slide on easily and pivot up and down without resistance. Add a bit of silicone lubricant around the piston boot as well.
Now you need to compress the caliper piston so they'll fit over your unworn brake parts. There's various ways to do this but I use a large C-Clamp. Clip the clamp over the edge of the piston and the back of the caliper and slowly compress it. (Another trick is to take the old brake pad and place it over the width of the piston and then compress that) Make sure you're not pinching the boot while you to so. It should move easily without a lot of pressure. If it doesn't your caliper may have issues and be due for replacement.
Almost done. Slide the caliper down over the pads. The lower slide pin may need to be adjusted to clear the bottom of the caliper bracket. Once everything is lined up replace the 12mm lower bolt. (24 ft-lbs) Straighten the wheel out and replace the rim. Before you lower the jack though give the wheel a spin (with the car in neutral) and make sure nothing sounds like its grinding or making any serious contact. The pads may lightly scrape the rotor but you shouldn't hear any serious metal on metal contact. If you do now is the time to go back and figure out what isn't right. (The flimsy metal dust sheild on the inside of the rotor is a pretty common culprit, especially if your car is older. These bend easily out of the way.)
You're done! Drop the car and pump the brakes a few times, start the car up and pump them a few more. Do a couple of test stops from a low speed before you get on any busy roads. Be ready to grab the emergency brake if something is seriously wrong. You can bed the brakes in by doing some firm stops from speed, your pedal should be nice and tight. Enjoy!